Off The Grid

Your best bet is to aquire land somewhere, anywhere you can afford (away from dense urban centers). When looking for land you need to keep budget in mind, you need to plan. DO NOT go in to debt. Find somewhere affordable and start saving up.

Start figuring out exactly what you want to do with the land. Are you going to primarily farm, hunt, fish? Are you going to build a cabin? How large? You will want to have hard blueprints for any structures you plan to build, beforehand.

Once you have your general location selected and you have some money saved up, start trying to find the physical plot of land you want to buy. Do not just buy online and hope for the best. There will be a lot of paperwork to fill out and depending on the zoning and access, there may be a lot of hidden costs. Watch out for deed issues and conservation lands, primarily.

Get a property map - go to the site to examine the physical land. You need to be looking for things like:

-Water access?
-Soil quality? You can't build on flooded land, think about the crops you want to grow
-Ledge? Are there huge boulders sticking out all over the place? This may be ledge and is a disaster when digging foundation, let alone farming.
-Plants? What kinds of plants are already growing there naturally? This will tell you a lot about your soil.
-Trees? Has the land been cleared already? What species of tree grow there? Think about your firewood and log cabin construction. Already cleared land is a waste of your money.
-Terrain? Is it mountainous/hilly? Flat? Flat is easier for building and farming, mountains are better for the Eagles Nest type of homestead

If looking to fish, buy land with a river. If looking to farm (to feed a family) buy a minimum of 4 acres. If looking to sustain a population of game on your own land (to hunt every year) look for around 50 acres. You can hunt successfully with >10 acres too, but your wild game is more susceptible to population fluctuation. The land you buy now will sustain your family for generations

As a side thought, if we keep posting how-to guides based on our personal experiences and training, maybe ANTIFA will realize just how shit their NEET lives are and be driven to absolute suicidal depression?

Either that or maybe they'll have a come to Jesus moment and realize that maybe they should make something of their lives and go do some hard work to better their situation like the chads of this channel instead of reading every word we say and constantly raging at white men trying to help others.

Probably not, but it's a good thought at least. They'll keep constantly hitting refresh and poring over every word while having massive mood swings induced by their faggot tranny hormone treatments and social media addiction.

So, if you have existing lap siding on your home, inspect it and ensure it is not Masonite. If it is, you'll need to replace at least the bottom half with a more suitable material (in addition to any vapor barrier or sheathing/framing that has been damaged).

It is of the utmost importance that you do not ignore this because damaged masonite will cause water damage and attract termites.

Firewood

Firewood is essential to any homestead or campsite. It provides you with quick accessible wood that will sustain you for the expected length of time needed. Specifically, firewood describes any wood with a moisture content less than 20%.

Homesteads: In a homestead environment, it is a good rule of thumb to have at least 4 months of seasoned firewood ready to burn at any point. This will require some method of roofing to protect the wood from rain and snow melt. You can use many methods to cover the tops of your wood stack such as, birch bark, waterproof tarps, or even dedicated wood sheds. For homesteads, hardwoods are the preferred wood to put in any fireplace or wood stove as these woods will burn cleaner/longer and are thus safer for chimney. Since keeping a homestead uses a lot of fuel, it is not efficient to gather small branches, instead you will find yourself felling entire trees. I will go more in depth on the skills and tools required in a later post. If you find yourself building a homestead on an undeveloped piece of land (lucky you) you can usually gather enough wood to build your home just by felling an acre or so around the foundation of the house. To fell trees safely you may need a combination of rope with a ratchet, axe, chainsaw and wedges. Not only do you gather many resources by clearing a section of forest around your new home, you can give yourself added peice of mind in the event of a forest fire.

Campsites: Camping can have many different meanings, to some this means taking your car to a pay per night campsite, to others it means hiking out to the middle of nowhere. If you are a 'glamper' make sure you follow all local guidelines on harvesting firewood and campfires. So this post is geared to self sustenance camping. When you are looking to gather wood for your campfire, you will be looking for three things: tinder, kindling and firewood (in order from least to greatest quantity). Tinder can be carried with you, but I always recommend that you read up on easily accessible tinder in your natural environment (dry leaves, dry pine needles, dry pinecones and dry birchbark are a few examples). You will need a minimum of a half handful of loose tinder per fire (less if you brought firestarter). Kindling is abundant, find areas with the most sunlight and pick up all the dry sticks that are roughly finger width or less (pine sticks are fantastic, again research your environment). You will need a minimum of two handfuls per fire. Firewood is any wood that is dry with a diameter the size of your wrist to no thicker than your neck. The best way to find dry firewood is always going to be the sunniest locations (riverbanks, fields, felled trees). Since firewood is much thicker, you will need tools to process these in the field (folding saw/manual chainsaws and hatchets are what I carry). You will want to cut the firewood in lengths of the desired diameter of your camp fire. A good rule of thumb is 6-8 logs per hour. Gather what firewood you think you need for the night and DOUBLE IT.

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This completes my introduction to homestead maintence and repair. I hope you all enjoyed these posts and feel more confident in your own abilities. You will make mistakes, but by doing it yourself you can imrpove your skills and your home. While these communists burn down their slum cities, we will build our beautiful communities. More to come

Common issues:

Roofs typically only have a couple common issues. Leaking and sagging. Leaking roofs are cause by old worn out shingles or by damage sustained from a storm or disaster. Leaky roofs typically don't make themselves known until they mess up your nice ceiling or walls. If you suddenly see water stains and bubbling on your drywall, you might have a leaky roof. Since we try and diagnose from the bottom up, you will have already ruled out walls and plumbing. The easiest way to find a leak is to go to your attic in the same general area where you saw the water stain. You will usually be able to look up at the roof framing and see water stains on the timbers if you have no attic, you should make all diagnostics from the outside if possible. If your shingles are in good shape overall, you may be able to remove a small portion and repair the affected area. If you have old shingles or find rot, it is going to be best to replace your entire roof, flashing and the rotted decking. The other most common issue is sagging, like floors, this is due to insufficient structural framing for the load the roof is under. This will often be found in areas effected by a rogue snowstorm, or old houses. Either way, if your roof is sagging, you will need to reinforce the roof. If it is localized sagging not due to water damage, you can likely install extra rafters and framing to supoort the weak area. More often however, sagging roofs need to be completely rebuilt by starting fresh from the framework.

Roofing continued:

Just like the rest of the house, the roof starts out as a frame. The frame is usually constructed of joists, trusses, and rafters. Together, these three types of beams make up a framework that gives the roof its shape and strength to support the weight of the roof plus snow if applicable. Asphalt shingles are standard roofing materials, but if you plan to use heavier materials like tile or slate, you may need to add extra supports at this stage. Once the frame is in place, it is covered in decking (like sheathing on a wall but usually stronger). Decking is the skin that covers the frame and creates the base that the rest of the roof will be built upon. The most common material for decking was once plywood. However, in recent decades oriented strand board (OSB) has taken over as the most common material for load-bearing planks in residential construction. OSB is similar to particle board, but instead of tiny bits of wood, it is made up of thin strips of wood. The strips are held together with resin and a small amount of wax to form a very strong plank. The first water barrier layer of the roof is the underlayment. Underlayment is installed directly on top of the decking. Mainly, it serves as a back-up water barrier in case any water makes it past the shingles. In cold climates, roofs may have an additional special underlayment that acts as a water and ice barrier. It can help protect from ice dams that form when the bottom layer of accumulated snow melts and refreezes at the edge of the roof. Some of these underlayments may have special properties such as being self-adhering and closing around nails for a watertight seal. In cold climates and areas prone to driving rain and high winds from hurricanes, the water and ice barrier might cover the whole roof. In more mild climates, ice and water barriers may still be used in vulnerable areas of the roof, like valleys, roof edges, and around penetrations in the roof. After the underlayment is installed, flashing is installed in areas of the roof that collect a lot of water. Valleys, where water from multiple roof planes is directed into a gushing stream, are always covered with flashing. The flashing is generally a thin layer of sheet metal that protects a vulnerable joint and directs water away from the area. Flashing is also used anywhere the decking is cut open for some type of penetration. For example, a chimney/dormer requires flashing all around it. The final outermost layer of the roof is the shingles or rubber roof. It is the part of the roof that is visible. The most common type of shingles are asphalt shingles due to their relative ease of installation, asphalt shingles will melt to each other in the hot sun when installed properly. Other common roof coverings are stone-slate shingles or metal roofing. Rubber roofing is used when a roof pitch is less than 3, because water will not drain fast enough on a flat roof.

Roofing:

Your roof is likely the most complicated and important part of your home. Roofing is what keeps your home dry all year round. There are many different types of roof structures but for the purpose of this post we will focus on the basic theory and structure behind most residential roofs. Before we can have a discussion about what parts make up a roof, you will need to know a few terms. These terms describe the typical architectural aspects of a pitched residential roof. Becoming familiar with these terms will enable you to understand how roofs are constructed. The first term is the roof pitch. Pitch is usually assigned an integer that describes common rise over run (angle) of a roof plane. If you recall from geometry class, a plane is a flat surface. In roofing terms, the roof plane is the pitched face of the roof. To describe the areas where roof planes meet, we use the terms ridge, hip and valley. The ridge of the roof is the highest point on the roof where two pitched planes meet. A hip is a place where to planes meet and prject away from you. A hip is similar to a peak, but is usually not at the top of your roof and is usually not horizontal. A valley, just like in geography, is the area where two planes meet and project towards you. A dormer is a common feature on many two-story houses. It is a parallel projection from the main plane of the roof that usually houses a window. The dormer is usually constructed to add space or natural light to an attic or top floor. The gable is not exactly part of the roof, but still an important term to recognize. It is the triangular part of the exterior wall that connects and supports the area between the pitched roof planes. The gable will also support the ridge beam.