The Love Shack (definitely not W R A T H again)

From birth until death, our rасіаl еnеmіеs have shown nothing but hаtrеd for our Rасе, and imbibed that hatred with their mother's milk. They are told stories of the wrаth of the White Gods, but very few have experienced it firsthand. The hour is coming soon where they shall learn the true extent of the power, drive, and Hаtrеd of the White Gods. They will soon discover they are powerless to resist and will appeal to our kindness and "humanity," but this time will be different. This time, it will be final. Show them your WRΑТH, and revel in their tеrrοr.

@DerLoveShack

Prime time is in a few days, saffer bros. Don't shirk your duty

Arminius gang, wassuh

W

Casting Bullets

This is a significant cost saving measure, and another way of detaching from the Beast System. So easy even a nigger could do it, there's no excuse to keep paying out the nose for primo "match grade bullets" for all your loads, especially if they're for plinking, range time, or tactical training and weapons handling. You will need some more gear (yes I know, your wallet's getting thin) but compared to the previous purchases this is relatively inexpensive. You will require:

1. A Mold
You need a mold for every bullet you want to cast, since they are all different weights, shapes and sizes. You need to work up the load you want to make before choosing your mold, since they make dozens of different shapes and weights for every diameter. I personally prefer multi-cavity molds so you can maximize the amount you can cast in a given time, but the single-cavity molds work just as well, only slower. You can expect to pay around $40 for a single cavity and a much more exorbitant amount for the multi-cavity molds.

2. A Furnace
A furnace (melting pot) is how you melt your scrap lead to pour into ingots. Alternatively, some people use a cast iron skillet and heat it over a propane pot heater, which works great for big melts but is a little more finicky when casting boolits since you have to pour the lead with a dipper. I personally melt my wheel weights I get from tire shops with a skillet and pour that lead into a muffin tin for my ingots. I then put those ingots into my furnace (I prefer bottom pour) to cast with. Whichever way you prefer is fine, it's mostly preference.

3. Flux
Flux is what purifies your melted lead, which will be full of impurities if sourced from digging up berms or used wheel weights. There are dozens of different brands to choose from, and I'm sure they all work fine, but my flux of choice is yet another cost saving measure: sawdust. I take a 5 gal bucket to my local sawmill and they provide me with unlimited sawdust for free. Once your lead is melted, just throw that shit in there and stir it in with your dipper and once you've stirred for a little bit the impurities (dross) will float to the top. You can then scoop that shit out and pour it on niggers if they walk too close to your HateShack™️. After you have removed your dross, cover the melted lead with another layer of sawdust to prevent oxidation of the surface layer, and you're set to either cast your boolits or pour your ingots.

4. A Sizer
Whenever you cast, your bullets are not always the correct size. You need a sizer to squeeze it down to the right size so it will correctly engage the rifling and fit well in your case. This will be covered in more detail in the pdf, but expect to pay around $20 for a sizer.

5. Coating or Lube
You need either to either coat your bullet (with powdercoat or other methods) or use a lubrisizer to squirt lube into the lube groove of your bullet to prevent lead fouling of your barrel. I will provide a link in the pdf section on powdercoating and the bullet casting pdf covers lubrication.

And that's it! You are now prepared to go cast your own boolits and go [REDACTED] your local [REDACTED].
You also need to consider the hardness of your bullets specific to their intended usage and your gas checks, but those are both covered in the pdf I will link at the end.

#reloading
t.me/DerLoveShack

Gear

Ok, here's the part where you clutch your wallet and tell me to fuck off, but hear me out.  You can expect to pay anywhere from $200 - $500 for a new reloading kit, or less if you get one used from a private party (i.e. an estate sale or online listing). This is admittedly a substantial investment, however you will make your money back by the time you've made 1000 - 1500 rounds since ammo is astronomically high these days. You can further increase your cost effectiveness by scrounging for range brass and casting your own bullets from scrap lead, which I will go into later.

For a beginner, I would recommend you start with a single stage press, since I don't think the increase in price and complexity (like indexing moving parts, changing shell plates, etc.) is offset by the modest increase in efficiency. The brand isn't super important, since most dies are interchangeable with any 7/8" press. Hornady, Lee, and RCBS presses all work great. Ignore that retarded boomer in your local gun store that tells you that all *insert brand* presses are shit because one time he broke his while using it for something it wasn't designed for. A reloading kit will have the majority of tools you will need, but there will likely be a few you will also need. This is not an all inclusive list, but should be most of your big ones.

1) Manual
The most important tool in your arsenal is your manual. Your manual is written in the blood of men before you who paid dearly for their mistakes, and it accompanied with a sound head on your shoulders will take you a long way. I recommend you read through your manual before you even take the press out of the box, so you will have a solid grasp of the concepts you'll be dealing with. I will include a pdf of a highly regarded manual in the pdf portion of my post.

2) Brass tumbler
There are many myriad tumblers you could buy, and they all work fine, but I just use a cheap ass harbor freight tumbler. Walk your ass into the pet store and get a bag of crushed walnut terrarium filler for media. Add a splash of car polish and tumble for a few hours and your brass will shine like a new penny.

3) Dies
For every round you want to reload (9mm, .223, 7.62x39, etc.) you will need the corresponding set of dies. Your dies reshape your brass after it has been fired and expanded by being shot. As with presses, most dies work great and all are interchangeable, and on the off chance you fuck them up all the large companies have great warranties. You can expect to spend from $40-$80 on a set of dies.

4) Case trimmer
Every time you load and fire a piece of brass, it grows in length from the immense internal pressure. Some rounds headspace off the case mouth, and if you don't trim your brass within spec, you can end up with an out-of-battery discharge, which fucks niggas up big time. Manual trimmers work fine, but are pretty slow. If you wanna trim at high speed, most big gun websites sell trimmers that attach to your hand drill. Both work well and cost from $40-$60.

5) Calipers

You need calipers to measure your case length and cartridge overall length (coal). I prefer dial calipers or vernier calipers since they don't take batteries, but digital ones will work too. Good calipers are pricey, but I find myself using them for all manner of things, not just reloading. Expect to pay $80+ for a nice pair, and some pretty ok digital ones can be found for around $40.

#reloading
t.me/DerLoveShack

Expectations

This isn't a zero-effort endeavor, and you don't get something for nothing. For every shekel you save, you have to invest some of your time. However, if you are willing to make the time then you can net a tangible reward (boolits and saved money) as well as knowledge and experience. Some cost saving measures include: scrounging for range brass, digging up range berms and looting tire shops for scrap lead, reloading primers, and perusing estate sales for components.

#reloading
t.me/DerLoveShack