Casting Bullets
This is a significant cost saving measure, and another way of detaching from the Beast System. So easy even a nigger could do it, there's no excuse to keep paying out the nose for primo "match grade bullets" for all your loads, especially if they're for plinking, range time, or tactical training and weapons handling. You will need some more gear (yes I know, your wallet's getting thin) but compared to the previous purchases this is relatively inexpensive. You will require:
1. A Mold
You need a mold for every bullet you want to cast, since they are all different weights, shapes and sizes. You need to work up the load you want to make before choosing your mold, since they make dozens of different shapes and weights for every diameter. I personally prefer multi-cavity molds so you can maximize the amount you can cast in a given time, but the single-cavity molds work just as well, only slower. You can expect to pay around $40 for a single cavity and a much more exorbitant amount for the multi-cavity molds.
2. A Furnace
A furnace (melting pot) is how you melt your scrap lead to pour into ingots. Alternatively, some people use a cast iron skillet and heat it over a propane pot heater, which works great for big melts but is a little more finicky when casting boolits since you have to pour the lead with a dipper. I personally melt my wheel weights I get from tire shops with a skillet and pour that lead into a muffin tin for my ingots. I then put those ingots into my furnace (I prefer bottom pour) to cast with. Whichever way you prefer is fine, it's mostly preference.
3. Flux
Flux is what purifies your melted lead, which will be full of impurities if sourced from digging up berms or used wheel weights. There are dozens of different brands to choose from, and I'm sure they all work fine, but my flux of choice is yet another cost saving measure: sawdust. I take a 5 gal bucket to my local sawmill and they provide me with unlimited sawdust for free. Once your lead is melted, just throw that shit in there and stir it in with your dipper and once you've stirred for a little bit the impurities (dross) will float to the top. You can then scoop that shit out and pour it on niggers if they walk too close to your HateShack™️. After you have removed your dross, cover the melted lead with another layer of sawdust to prevent oxidation of the surface layer, and you're set to either cast your boolits or pour your ingots.
4. A Sizer
Whenever you cast, your bullets are not always the correct size. You need a sizer to squeeze it down to the right size so it will correctly engage the rifling and fit well in your case. This will be covered in more detail in the pdf, but expect to pay around $20 for a sizer.
5. Coating or Lube
You need either to either coat your bullet (with powdercoat or other methods) or use a lubrisizer to squirt lube into the lube groove of your bullet to prevent lead fouling of your barrel. I will provide a link in the pdf section on powdercoating and the bullet casting pdf covers lubrication.
And that's it! You are now prepared to go cast your own boolits and go [REDACTED] your local [REDACTED].
You also need to consider the hardness of your bullets specific to their intended usage and your gas checks, but those are both covered in the pdf I will link at the end.
#reloading
t.me/DerLoveShack
This is a significant cost saving measure, and another way of detaching from the Beast System. So easy even a nigger could do it, there's no excuse to keep paying out the nose for primo "match grade bullets" for all your loads, especially if they're for plinking, range time, or tactical training and weapons handling. You will need some more gear (yes I know, your wallet's getting thin) but compared to the previous purchases this is relatively inexpensive. You will require:
1. A Mold
You need a mold for every bullet you want to cast, since they are all different weights, shapes and sizes. You need to work up the load you want to make before choosing your mold, since they make dozens of different shapes and weights for every diameter. I personally prefer multi-cavity molds so you can maximize the amount you can cast in a given time, but the single-cavity molds work just as well, only slower. You can expect to pay around $40 for a single cavity and a much more exorbitant amount for the multi-cavity molds.
2. A Furnace
A furnace (melting pot) is how you melt your scrap lead to pour into ingots. Alternatively, some people use a cast iron skillet and heat it over a propane pot heater, which works great for big melts but is a little more finicky when casting boolits since you have to pour the lead with a dipper. I personally melt my wheel weights I get from tire shops with a skillet and pour that lead into a muffin tin for my ingots. I then put those ingots into my furnace (I prefer bottom pour) to cast with. Whichever way you prefer is fine, it's mostly preference.
3. Flux
Flux is what purifies your melted lead, which will be full of impurities if sourced from digging up berms or used wheel weights. There are dozens of different brands to choose from, and I'm sure they all work fine, but my flux of choice is yet another cost saving measure: sawdust. I take a 5 gal bucket to my local sawmill and they provide me with unlimited sawdust for free. Once your lead is melted, just throw that shit in there and stir it in with your dipper and once you've stirred for a little bit the impurities (dross) will float to the top. You can then scoop that shit out and pour it on niggers if they walk too close to your HateShack™️. After you have removed your dross, cover the melted lead with another layer of sawdust to prevent oxidation of the surface layer, and you're set to either cast your boolits or pour your ingots.
4. A Sizer
Whenever you cast, your bullets are not always the correct size. You need a sizer to squeeze it down to the right size so it will correctly engage the rifling and fit well in your case. This will be covered in more detail in the pdf, but expect to pay around $20 for a sizer.
5. Coating or Lube
You need either to either coat your bullet (with powdercoat or other methods) or use a lubrisizer to squirt lube into the lube groove of your bullet to prevent lead fouling of your barrel. I will provide a link in the pdf section on powdercoating and the bullet casting pdf covers lubrication.
And that's it! You are now prepared to go cast your own boolits and go [REDACTED] your local [REDACTED].
You also need to consider the hardness of your bullets specific to their intended usage and your gas checks, but those are both covered in the pdf I will link at the end.
#reloading
t.me/DerLoveShack